Alma Maximiliana Karlin se je rodila 12. oktobra 1889 v Celju v
meščanski družini šestdesetletnemu očetu Jakobu Karlinu, upokojenemu
majorju avstrijske vojske iz Tuncovca pri Rogaški Slatini, in petinštiridesetletni
materi, učiteljici Vilibaldi Miheljak, hčeri prvega slovenskega
notarja v Celju Martina Miheljaka, v kateri so tedaj, tako kot je
bilo običajno v družinah državnih uslužbencev, govorili le nemško,
pa četudi sta bila starša slovenskega rodu. Zato Alma ni nikoli
dobro govorila slovenskega jezika, še manj pisala. Na svet je prišla
napol hroma, s poškodovanimi nogami, in nesimetrična, z napol priprtim
levim očesom, tako da je zdravnik dejal, da bo otrok verjetno duševno
prizadet.
Alma je kot otrok težko hodila, zato je največ
časa preživela doma. Pri osmih letih ji je za jetiko umrl oče, tako
da so mater nekoliko razbremenile Almine tete, ki so jo leto zatem
vzele s seboj na popotovanje po Dalmaciji, Hercegovini, Italiji,
Tirolski in Bavarski, kjer si je po pet ur na dan ogledovala galerije
in muzeje ter napisala svoje prve pesmi in krajše zgodbe.
Pri trinajstih je morala skozi hude ortopedske
operacije, bolečine pa je začela premagovati z učenjem tujih jezikov.
V letu 1907 je na srednji šoli v Gradcu opravila izpite iz nemščine,
angleščine in francoščine.
Leta 1913 je Alma nadaljevala
študij jezikov (angleščine, švedščine, norveščine, danščine, italijanščine,
španščine, francoščine in ruščine) na Society of Arts v Londonu.
Učila pa se je tudi sanskrta in kitajščine ter preučevala egipčanske
hieroglife in hebrejščino.
Odločila se je, da bo
koristno izpolnila vsak trenutek svojega življenja. Ob ponedeljkih
se je učila norveščino, ob torkih francoščino, ob sredah angleščino
in latinščino, ob četrtkih danščino, ob petkih najprej italijanščino
in nato še švedščino, ob sobotah je obiskovala svoje azijske prijatelje
v Hayesu, ob nedeljah dopoldne pa ure španščine in zvečer še ruščine.
Ob ponedeljkih je po uri norveščine šla še na Fellows Road na ure
sanskrta, vsako jutro pa se je poleg tega na pamet naučila po eno
pesem v vseh jezikih hkrati.
Preživljala se je kot
prevajalka v prevajalski pisarni na Regent Streetu in s poučevanjem
jezikov. Poučevala je predvsem Azijce, ki so jo vpeljali v teozofijo
in vzhodnjaške filozofije ter ji pomagali pri učenju kitajščine
in sanskrta, sama pa se je delno seznanila tudi z arabščino in perzijščino.
Kmalu je postala članica
londonskega Teozofskega Društva.
Med študijem je šest
mesecev preživela tudi v Parizu, kjer je poslušala predavanja na
College de France in na Sorboni, mimogrede pa preučevala še prerokovanje
z dlani.
Med eno izmed inštrukcij
angleščine je spoznala Hsi Sing Jung Lunga, sina kitajskega mandarina,
ki jo je nato zasnubil, ona pa je ponudbo sprejela. Zaročenca je
odpeljala v Celje, da bi ga predstavila materi, ki pa nad izbiro
ni bila navdušena, tako da je Alma opustila misel na poroko in se
prek Danske in Švedske vrnila v London.
Spomladi leta 1914 je
na londonski Society of Arts z odliko opravila izpite iz osmih tujih
jezikov. S svojim uspehom je vzbudila veliko začudenje, saj je pri
izpitu iz angleščine prekosila vseh devetsto kandidatov, celo same
Angleže.
Ko se je začela prva
svetovna vojna, avstro-ogrski državljani v Veliki Britaniji niso
bili več zaželeni, zato je odšla na Norveško, kjer je nekaj časa
preživela na skrajnem severu med ljudstvom Samijev, pozimi pa se
je zatekla v Stockholm, kjer se je odločila, da bo potovala po svetu
in postala poklicna pisateljica.
Po končani prvi svetoni
vojni se je vrnila domov v Celje in ustanovila šolo za tuje jezike
in začela s pripravami na potovanje okoli sveta. Da bi se dobro
pripravila na popotovanje, se je urila v slikanju in se učila zemljepisa,
zgodovine, naravoslovja, botanike in zoologije. Lotila se je pisanja
slovarja desetih jezikov, med katerimi je bil tudi slovenski, ki
ji je nato služil na poti okoli sveta.
Sicer pa je bilo navdušenje
nad znanostjo, umetnostjo in potovanji del Almine družinske tradicije,
kajti po očetovi strani segajo njene družinske korenine do Giovannija
Rinalda, grofa Carlija (1720-1795), italijanskega profesorja astronomije
in navtike, avtorja zgodovine Mehike in Peruja. Ena od vej družine
Carli se je pozneje preselila v Francijo in se pomešala s francosko
aristokracijo. Med revolucijo so skoraj vse njene člane obglavili.
Zadnji preživeli Carli je zbežal proti vzhodu, se ustavil v Rogaški
Slatini ter svoj priimek poslovenil v Karlin.
Alma je načrtovala je,
da bo potovanje trajalo dve, največ tri leta. V resnici pa je nato
trajalo kar dobrih osem let.
Čas po koncu prve svetovne vojne ni bil posebno naklonjen
popotnikom, kakršna je bila Alma Karlin. V svetu je vladal odpor
do nemško govorečih ljudi, težko je bilo najti zaposlitev in dovoljenje
za prestop državne meje. Jugoslovansko državljanstvo je Karlinovi
vsaj do neke mere olajšalo pridobitev vizumov za vstop v tuje države.
Najprej je želela videti Indijo, pa ji angleške oblasti tega niso
dovolile.
Tako se je 24. novembra
1919 z nekaj malega denarja, s pisalnim strojem erika in s pripravljenim
slovarjem desetih tujih jezikov odpeljala s celjske železniške postaje
proti Trstu. Tu ji je denar hitro kopnel, ker je morala pet tednov
čakati na ladjo in na vizum. Nameravala je naravnost na Japonsko,
ker je bila to edina viza, ki jo je dobila, vendar pa si je zadnji
hip premislila in se odločila za pot čez Genovo v Južno Ameriko.
Dvomesečno potovanje
do Mollenda v Peruju je preživela v neznosnih razmerah, ob pičli
hrani in v umazaniji. Tam se je izkrcala 5. aprila in bila kot belopolta
ženska, sama sredi Peruja, ves čas v nevarnosti. Srečala se je s
čarovništvom in vraževerji inkovskega naroda ter bila deležna številnih
neprijetnosti. Tako so jo v Arequipi obtožili, da je preoblečeni
čilski ali bolivijski vohun ter jo hoteli sleči in javno pregledati.
Večkrat so jo skušali posiliti, zato je spala oblečena, z zastrupljenim
bodalom pod blazino, vsak trenutek pripravljena na beg.
Tako je iz Peruja skoraj
pobegnila v Panamo, kjer se je srečala z vudujskimi čarovniki in
se v upravi prekopa zaposlila kot prva ženska sodna prevajalka.
A že naslednjega leta
se je odpravila naprej in ob obali Srednje Amerike, s krajšima postankoma
v Nikaragvi in Ekvadorju, prispela v Združene države Amerike. Tam
si je ogledala Los Angeles in San Francisco ter odšla naprej na
Havaje, ki so bili njen prvi daljši postanek. V času bivanja na
Havajih je prevajala za muzej v Honoluluju ter si s tem zaslužila
denar za nadaljevanje poti.
Tako je leto dni pozneje
odpotovala s Havajev na Japonsko. Življenje na Japonskem je bilo
najlepši del njenega potovanja. Dobila je delo na nemški ambasadi
v Tokiu in si dodobra ogledala Japonsko.
A tudi tu ni dolgo zdržala,
ampak se je odpravila naprej v Korejo in nato še v Mandžurijo in
na Kitajsko, od tu pa na Tajvan, kjer je obiskala Tajalce, lovce
na človeške glave. Nato je v Hongkongu kupila karto do Avstralije
in se na poti ustavila v Manili, na Borneu, Bisernih otokih, Celebesu
ter prek Četrtkovih otokov prispela v Sydney in Adelaido.
Naslednja postaja na
njeni poti pa je bila Nova Zelandija, od koder je potovala na Fidži,
nato pa na Novo Kaledonijo, Nove Hebride, Salomonove otoke, Karolinske
otoke, Bismarckove otoke, Novo Gvinejo in Moluke.
Ob jezeru Sentani na
Novi Gvineji je bila tudi na meji dotlej znanega sveta, saj dlje
dotlej ni prišla še nobena ekspedicija. Tam se je celo srečala z
ljudožerci, vendar imela srečo, da je ta srečanja srečno preživela.
Vračala se je prek Indonezije
in se ustavila na Celebesu, Javi in Sumatri ter pripotovala v Singapur.
Pot jo je nato vodila prek Burme v Indijo, ki je bila tudi zadnja
daljša postaja na njeni poti. Obiskala je Kalkuto, Agro, Delhi,
Lahore, Madras in Karachi, kjer je predavala o miru in za to prejela
posebno odlikovanje.
Iz Karačija se je nato
januarja 1928 na prošnjo svoje umirajoče matere prek Adena, Port
Sudana, Port Saida, Benetk in Trsta vsa bolna, shujšana in obubožana
vrnila domov v Celje.
Obiskane kraje je Alma
podrobno preučila, vse od njihove zgodovine in splošnega ter duhovnega
izročila do drugih posebnosti dežel. Vse te kraje, rastlinstvo in
živalstvo je tudi natančno skicirala ali naslikala v številnih beležkah
in pri tem urejala še herbarij. Zanimala se je za šolanje in družbeni
položaj žensk, predvsem pa je preučevala starodavna verska izročila,
magijo, šamanizem, zdravilna zelišča, simbole in mitologijo ter
o tem pošiljala prispevke številnim časopisom in revijam po svetu,
vendar pa zanje pogosto ni prejela honorarja ali pa je bil ta izjemno
skromen.
Po vrnitvi domov je
Alma predavala, urejala zbrano gradivo in pisala, iz zbranega etnološkega
gradiva pa je v svojem stanovanju uredila malo zbirko.
Imela je veliko odmevnih
predavanj, ki so jih njeni someščani zelo radi obiskovali in se
ji zanje zahvaljevali v takratnem časopisju. Predavala je tudi na
različnih evropskih univerzah in v ženskih društvih. Nekoč so jo
na Dunaju navdušeni študentje po predavanju na rokah odnesli v njen
hotel.
Pisala je potopisne
članke za nemško in angleško govorno področje, za dnevnike in za
ženske, zgodovinsko-etnološke in okultne revije ter začela objavljati
svoje potopise in romane. Tako je od leta 1921 do 1937 pri različnih
založbah v Nemčiji, Angliji, na Finskem in v Švici izdala 22 knjig.
Samo na nemškem knjižnem trgu je bilo leta 1934 sedemnajst njenih
knjig.
Leta 1932 je Alma obiskala
Stockholm in na tamkajšnjem radiju predavala o svojih popotovanjih.
Po oddaji jo je poklicala slikarka Thea Schreiber Gammelin in jo
prosila za srečanje, iz katerega se je razvilo trajno prijateljstvo.
Thea je Almo med drugim predstavila tudi Nobelovi nagrajenki za
literaturo Selmi Lagerlof, ki je izredno pozitivno ocenila njeno
delo. Prijateljici sta si nato nekaj let redno dopisovali, čez čas
pa jo je Alma zaprosila, da bi postala njena osebna tajnica in tako
se je sedemnajst let mlajša Thea za stalno preselila v Slovenijo.
Leta 1934 je Alma prenehala
pisati potopisne članke in zgodbe ter se povsem preusmerila v okultizem.
Zanimali sta jo predvsem raziskovanje starodavnih ljudstev in teozofija.
V svojih delih, ki so bila plod njenih vizij, je posegla nazaj v
obdobje Atlantide in v prazgodovino Kitajske, Peruja in Mehike.
Leta 1937 je pri Almi
in Thei našel zatočišče nemški novinar Hans Joachim Bonsack, ki
ga je Hitler preganjal zaradi domnevne vpletenosti v enega od atentatov
nanj. Almi ga je uspelo spraviti na Češko, vendar pa so zaradi tega
v Nemčiji prepovedali njena dela. V zvezi z Bonsackovim primerom
je pisala tudi Ligi Narodov: “Zdaj se bolj kot kdaj prej bije boj
za pravico, svobodo in demokracijo in vsi tisti, ki ne bodo tukaj
ukrepali po svojih najboljših močeh, bodo ječali pod jarmom tiranov,
ko bo prepozno.”
Ob zasedbi Jugoslavije
jo je nato leta 1941 preganjal gestapo in jo končno aretiral, zaplenil
njeno premoženje ter jo poslal v Dachau, vendar pa se ji je s poti
v taborišče nekako posrečilo pobegniti v partizane. Z osvobojenega
ozemlja v Črnomlju je odšla v Dalmacijo in o partizanskem gibanju
pisala celo Churchillu. Iz časa NOB je ohranjenih več njenih partizanskih
zgodb. Tudi Thea se je med vojno pridružila partizanom in je bila
kot kurirka tudi huje ranjena.
Po vojni oblasti niso
hotele imeti ničesar s pisateljico, ki je pisala nemško. Almino
in Theino privarčevano imetje je bilo v bankah v tujini, kamor nista
mogli, tako da sta se preselili v majhno hišo na hrib Pečovnik nad
Celjem, kjer sta se preživljali s skromno Theino pokojnino in večkrat
trpeli pomanjkanje.
Svoje življenje je Alma
Karlin zaključila 14. januarja 1950 v Pečovniku pri Celju, pokopana
pa je na Svetini.
Napisala je dvajset
odličnih romanov, potopisov in zgodb, v njeni zapuščini pa je še
približno 40 neobjavljenih besedil, novel, črtic in poljudnoznanstvenih
člankov, 400 pesmi, 98 listov notnih zapisov ter več kot 500 rastlinskih
listov in risb.
V Pokrajinskem muzeju
Celju je urejena stalna etnografska zbirka Alme Karlin, v kateri
je okoli 800 njenih predmetov in 400 razglednic, vendar pa je njena
zapuščina razpršena po različnih krajih in je vsaj še enkrat tolikšna.
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Alma Maksimilijana Karlin was born in a middle class family on 12
October 1889 in Celje, to the sixty years old father Jakob Karlin,
a retired major of Austrian army from Tuncovec near Rogaška Slatina,
and to the forty-five years old mother, teacher Vilibalda Miheljak,
daughter of the first Slovenian notary in Celje, Martin Miheljak.
It was common in the families of the state employees that spoken
language was German, nevertheless the parents were of the Slovenian
birth. Therefore Alma never spoke Slovenian well, still less wrote.
She came to this world half crippled, with damaged legs, unsymmetrical,
with half closed left eye, so that the doctor said that the child
will be probably retarded.
As a child Alma walked with difficulty
and spent most of her time at home. When she was eight years old
her father died of tuberculosis. The following year her aunts took
her to an excursion over Dalmatia, Herzegovina, Italy, Tyrol and
Bavaria. There she spent five hours a day visiting galleries and
museums and wrote her first poems and short stories.
When thirteen years old Alma went
through hard orthopedic operations and began to overcome her pain
with the study of languages. In 1907 she passed exams in German,
English and French languages at high school in Graz.
In 1913 Alma continued
her study of languages (English, Swedish, Norwegian, Danish, Italian,
Spanish, French and Russian) in London at the Society of Arts and
additionally learned Sanskrit and Chinese and inquired hieroglyphs
and Hebrew.
She decided to make
good use of every moment of her life. On Mondays she learned Norwegian,
on Tuesdays French, on Wednesdays English and Latin, on Thursdays
Danish, on Fridays Italian and Swedish, on Saturdays she visited
her Asiatic friends in Hayes, on Sundays morning she studied Spanish
and in the evening Russian. On Mondays, after the lessons in Norwegian,
she went to the Fellows Road to master Sanskrit, and every morning
she learned by heart a poem in all languages simultaneously.
Alma made her living
by translation work on Regent Street and by giving language lessons,
mostly to Asiatics, who acquainted her with theosophy and eastern
philosophies and helped her in her study of Chinese and Sanskrit,
while by herself she acquired some knowledge of Arabic and Persian.
She soon became a member
of the Theosophical Society.
During the study Alma
spent also about six months in Paris attending lectures at the College
de France and at the Sorbonne and by the way made some research
on palmistry.
While giving English
lessons she met Hsi Sing Jung Lung, son of a Chineese mandarin.
He soon asked Alma to marry him what she accepted. Alma took him
to Celje to introduced him to her mother but she wasn’t happy with
her daughter choice at all. So Alma gave up her plans about marriage
and went back, through Denmark and Sweden, to London.
In the spring of 1914
she graduated at the London Society of Arts with honors in eight
languages. She made great surprise at English exams overshadowing
all nine hundred candidates, even Englishmen themselves.
When the WWI broke out
the Austrian citizens became unwelcome in Great
Britain, so she went to Norway
and lived for some time in far North among the Lapps, spending winters
in Stockholm where she finally decided that she will travel around
the world and become a professional writer.
After the war she came
back home to Celje and founded a school for foreign languages and
began to make plans for the travel. To be well prepared for the
challenge she trained herself in painting and learned geography,
history, biology, botanics and zoology and prepared the overall
dictionary in ten languages, including the Slovenian, which she
was then using during her travel around the world.
Enthusiasm over science,
arts and traveling was part of Alma’s family tradition as her father
family roots went back to Giovanni Rinaldo, Count Carli (1720-1795),
Italian professor of astronomy and nautics, author of the Mexican
and Peruvian history. One of the Carli family branches later on
immigrated to France and
mixed with French aristocracy. During the revolution nearly all
members of this family branch were beheaded. The last survived Carli
escaped to the East and stopped at Rogaška Slatina and slovenized
his surname into Karlin.
Alma planned that her
travel will took two, at maximum three years, but in truth it lasted
eight.
The time after the WWI
wasn't favorable for the travelers like Alma Karlin. There was generally
present an opposition towards German speaking people, so it was
hard to get a job and permissions for the border crossing. Yugoslav
citizenship helped her to gain visas for foreign countries a little
easier. She wanted to see India
first but English authorities didn’t allow her to do so.
On 24th of November
1919 Alma left Celje’s train station for Trieste, with a humble
sum of money and her multilingual dictionary in a pocket and a typewriter
Erica in her hand. There her money was quickly coming short as she
had to wait for the ship and visa. She planned to go to Japan
first, as this was the only visa she could get quickly, but she
suddenly changed her mind and traveled to Genoa and took a boat
to South America.
Alma spent two months
long voyage to Mollendo in Peru
in intolerable conditions, with poor food and in dirt. She landed
on 5th of April. As a white-skin woman, all alone in the middle
of Peru, she was in constant
danger. Alma met with sorcery and superstitions of Inca’s people
and with all sorts of troubles. In Arequipa she was accused to be
hidden Chilean or Bolivian spy and nearly forced to be publicly
undressed and examined. She was several time in danger to be raped,
so she slept with poisoned knife under the pillow and prepared for
escape in any moment.
Alma almost deserted
from Peru to Panama.
There she met voodoo sorcerers, but also found
good employment in the management of the Panama
channel as the first woman court interpreter.
But already the next
year Alma moved on, along the coast of Latin America
and with two short stays in Nicaragua
and Ecuador, to the
United States of America. There she visited
Los Angeles and San Francisco and proceeded to Hawaii. There she
remained a little longer, translating brochures for the Honolulu
Museum and in that way gaining money for the continuation of her
travel.
From Hawaii Alma went
to Japan. There she spent the most beautiful time of her journey
as she get well payed job at the German Embassy and managed to travel
throuhout the whole country.
But neither there she
stayed too long. Alma moved on to Korea, Manchuria
and China, and from there
to Taiwan. There she visited
Tajals, hunters on human heads. In Hong Kong she took a ship to
Australia and visited Manila,
Borneo, Pearl Islands, Celebes, Thursday Islands and finally arrived
in Sydney and Adelaide.
Her next stay was New
Zealand from where she moved to Fiji
and then to New Caledonia, New Hebrides, the Salomon Islands, Caroline
Islands, Bismarck Islands, Moluc Islands and New
Guinea.
There, along the lake
Sentani, she reached the frontier of then known world, for no previous
expedition came to this point. She even met cannibals and had luck
to survive the unpleasant encounter.
Alma was returning by
the way of Indonesia and
stayed for a while on Celebes, Java and Sumatra. From Singapore
she traveled to Burma and
India, the last longer
stay on her trip. She visited Calcutta, Agra, Delhi, Lahore, Madras
and Karachi, where she gave a talk on peace and received special
medal.
From Karachi Alma went,
on the request of her dying mother, back home - through Aden, Port
Sudan, Port Said, Venice and Trieste. She arrived in Celje in January
1928, ill, slimmed and impoverished.
Alma carefully studied
visited places, examined their history, general and spiritual heritage
and other peculiarities. She made exact sketches and paintings of
flora and fauna and arranged a herbarium. She was interested in
women education and social conditions and especially attracted by
ancient religious heritage, magic, shamanism, medicinal herbs, symbolism
and mythology. She was sending reports to several newspapers and
magazines all around the world but often didn’t received fees or
these were really humble.
Once at home Alma lectured,
arranged collected material and wrote. Out of gathered ethnological
material she created a small collection in her house.
She had several successful
lectures at different universities and women’s clubs throughout
the Europe. Once, in Vienna, enthusiastic students even carried
her to the hotel on their shoulders.
She wrote travel articles
for German and English public, for newspapers and for women, historical-ethnological
and spiritual magazines and began to publish her travel books and
stories. In the period 1921-1937 there were 22 Alma’s books published
by German, English, Finish and Swiss publishers. In 1934 there were
17 of her books present on the German book-market.
In 1932 Alma visited
Stockholm and gave a talk about her travel on the radio. After the
broadcast she was contacted by painter Thea Schreiber Gammelin.
This meeting evolved into longstanding friendship. Thea introduced
Alma to the Nobel Prize for literature, Selma Lagerlof, who evaluated
her work very positively. Alma and Thea regularly corresponded for
few years. Finally Alma asked seventeen years younger Thea to become
her personal secretary. Thea accepted the offer and transferred
to Slovenia.
In 1934 Alma stopped
to write travel articles and stories and dedicated herself completely
to occultism. She was primarily interested in the investigation
of ancient peoples and theosophy. In her works, result of her visions,
she described the period of Atlantis and the pre-historical ages
of China, Peru
and Mexico.
In 1937 Alma and Thea
gave refuge to German journalist Hans Joachim Bonsack, who was persecuted
by Hitler because of alleged involvement in one of the attempted
assassinations. Alma managed to transfer him to Czech Republic,
but in consequence her works were prohibited in Germany.
Concerning the Bonsack case she wrote to the League of Nations:
“Now, more then ever, there goes on a struggle for justice, freedom
and democracy, and all those who will not act according to their
best powers will suffer under the yoke of tyrants when it will be
too late.”
After the occupation
of Yugoslavia, in 1941,
Gestapo persecuted Alma and finally arrested her, confiscated all
her property and sent her to Dachau. But she somehow succeeded to
escape from the transport and fled to partisans. From the liberated
territory around Črnomelj she went to Dalmatia and there wrote to
Mr. Churchill describing the liberation movement. From her NOB (National
Liberation Struggle) period there are preserved several partisan
stories. During the war Thea joined the partisans too and was severely
wounded.
After the war the authorities
didn’t want to have anything to do with the writer who wrote in
German. Alma’s and Thea’s spared founds were in foreign banks and
therefore inaccessible, so they moved in a small house on the hill
Pečovnik above Celje and lived humbly with the Thea’s pension, often
in shortage.
Alma died from cancer
on 14 January 1950 and was buried in the church's courtyard at Svetina.
She wrote 22 excellent
novels, travel books and stories. In her legacy there are about
40 unpublished texts, novels and sketches, and many articles, about
400 poems, 98 note records and over 500 plant sketches and paintings.
In Pokrajinski Muzej
(Regional Museum) Celje there is arranged a permanent ethnographic
collection in which there are 800 exhibits and 400 postcards, but
her legacy is still scattered all around and includes at least as
much pieces.
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